1969 Roadrunner Full Restoration

[Sabre_3]

Why are you saving the tunnel? I would just buy the full floor pan and do it right rather than have to splice in and weld separate drivers and passenger pans.

Good point sir!

The intent was to attemp to salvage as much original sheetmetal as possible, keep as much rigidity as possible and save the $209.99 (before tax and shipping) for the Shifter Tunnel since the original one seems to be in good shape. Moreover, the Left and Right Floor Pans are $509.98 (before tax and shipping whereas the complete Floor Pan is $549.99 (before tax and shipping)

By saving the tunnel, I figure I save about $240 (before tax and shipping).

I'm still debating this approach.

Thank you for the recommendations!!!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3

 

[torredcuda]

The four speed tunnel is just tack welded on and easily removed and reused. The only rust in my floor pan was the drivers footwear but some previous owner changed it to a four speed by splicing in a 3' x 4' section from another car instead of just cutting a hole and adding the four speed hump. Like you i have to always keep the budget in mind but this was one area I decided to spend the extra money and buy the one piece front floor pan as it just makes for a much nicer job.

 

[Sabre_3]

The four speed tunnel is just tack welded on and easily removed and reused. The only rust in my floor pan was the drivers footwear but some previous owner changed it to a four speed by splicing in a 3' x 4' section from another car instead of just cutting a hole and adding the four speed hump. Like you i have to always keep the budget in mind but this was one area I decided to spend the extra money and buy the one piece front floor pan as it just makes for a much nicer job.

Sounds like the right approach!

Thank you so much for the guidance!!

I'll post pics when I get the full floor pan in

 

[Sabre_3]

Ok...I’ve got updates!

It's been a hot minute or three. I purchase a 1969 Coronet (more on that for B-Bodies only), purchased more parts from Clay & Sons Mopar Salvage and opend up the trunk frame rails. I also shot some temporary rattle-can primer to protect the clead up and exposed metal from the floor pan removal and trunk sheet metal removal process.

Take a peek:


Passenger's Side: Cleaned up Seat Support Bracket and Frame Rails.


Passenger's Side: Temporary Rattle Can Primer to protect exposed metal and prevent rust.

I wanted to open up the trunk frame rails to see how the interior looks.

Here's what it looked like before I started:


Trunk Area: Missing the cross brace.


Trunk Area: I'm a novice, so I mark where the frame rails are.


Trunk Area - Passenger's Side: Old sheet metal issues out, grinding down spots welds and busting rust until it shines once again.


Trunk Area: Temporarily encapsulated with rattle can primer until I can get the car media blasted.

Let me know what you think!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3

 

[Sabre_3]

Ok, hard at it again yesterday.

This time I targeted the Driver's Side back seat area. Unfortunately, I didn't reach my goal of getting the inner frame rails in rattle can temporary primer. However, will get-r-done this weekend!

Take a peek!


Driver's Side Rear Back Seat Foot Pan: taped out my cut lines so I make nice straight cuts and avoid structural frame rails.


Driver's Side Rear Back Seat Floor Pan: carefully removed. I decided to keep the lateral cross member temporarily because I see still have to move the car around the shop and trailer the car to get it professionally dipped or media blasted (still deciding on which path to take) and want as much structural integrity in the car as possible.


Driver's Side Rear Back Seat Floor Pan: Taped up and ready to be removed.


Driver's Side Rear Back Seat Floor Pan: Removed. I cleaned the frame rails and Removed about one inch of solidified dirt and debris that accumulated at the bottom of the frame rails.

I will carefully expose the spot welds, remove the rotten sheet metal from the frame rails, remove the rust from the top and inner frame rails, inspect the inner and outer frame rails, and temporarily encapsulate the exposed metal with rattle can primer.

Stamp and repeat for Passenger's side Back Seat area.

Hopefully, we're heading in the right direction.

Let me know what you think!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3

 

[roadrunninMark]

Instead of using temporary rattle can primer and taping, you can save yourself a lot of time and effort by using a weld through primer.

 

[torredcuda]

IMO if you are going to have it dipped or sandblasted there is no need for any primer as there will very little if any surface rust forming and it will be taken off when you dip or blast anyway - save your money.