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Opinions greatly appreciated

ashy22

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It is a Dana 60 but I bet the exhaust was put in before the shocks were installed.

Thanks 69hemibeep.

Are you saying that the exhaust was put in and then there wasn't the room to mount the shocks where they should go so they have modded it to make them fit.

Has anybody got a close up photo shot showing how it should be?

Cheers
 

ashy22

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And here is another one

http://www.stolzeclassiccars.nl/aanbod/940/plymouth-roadrunner/


This one seems really good but a few questions or opinions. I don't like the tail fin so I would remove it and fill the holes. Good idea or not?

here is a picture of the fender tag. It has some odd strange numbers on it and it isn't painted. Did they ever come out of the factory unpainted? Does it look real?
road runner (5) (2).jpg

Cheers

Ashy22

road runner (5) (2).jpg
 

Basketcase

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looks good, but anytime I see price not listed it usually means over priced.all the fender tags I've seen have been painted. the stampings on that one look soft, unlike the factory ones I've seen.
 

ashy22

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I rang the guy. It's going for 29750 euros (its in Holland) which is around 32000 dollars.

All these cars I am now seeing are in mainland Europe. Can't find any decent ones in UK.

The purple one that I found back in this thread (with strange shock mount) is in remote Northern Sweden (its still snowing there)
 

ashy22

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Hi guys.

Some more pictures of the 70 RR.

Thinking of going over the channel to take a look at this one. The GBP to Euro is great at the moment.

Some more questions for people in the know.

Does the underside look OK.

Sills?

Body seam?

plym Road R (2).jpgplym Road R (3).jpgplym Road R (4).jpgplym Road R (5).jpgplym Road R (1).jpg


Also this 1968 RR available on a German website. (although this car is still in the states - Orlando)

http://amcustomz.com/for-sale/1968-plymouth-roadrunner-383cui-preis-37-900-eur/

I like the colour and the engine bay.

Any thoughts please? Some of you guys in the states might even know this one. - lol

Cheers

Paul

plym Road R (2).jpg

plym Road R (3).jpg

plym Road R (4).jpg

plym Road R (5).jpg

plym Road R (1).jpg
 

Basketcase

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I like the '68, has rear arm rests in the front. Sits awful low for having air shocks. Killer is not being able to see it first hand.
The '70 looks good, but pictures only show so much. Be worth looking it over.
 

69hemibeep

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Thanks 69hemibeep.

Are you saying that the exhaust was put in and then there wasn't the room to mount the shocks where they should go so they have modded it to make them fit.

Has anybody got a close up photo shot showing how it should be?

Cheers

That's what I was saying
 

ashy22

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I like the '68, has rear arm rests in the front. Sits awful low for having air shocks. Killer is not being able to see it first hand.
The '70 looks good, but pictures only show so much. Be worth looking it over.

I thought the same about the car sitting low. Why do air shocks make it sit low?

A swap to standard shocks would cure that - right?

Is there anybody in the Orlando area that could check this car out that you know?
 

Basketcase

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no, air shocks are used to raise a car. It looks like they have lowering blocks between the rear end housing and the springs.
 

ashy22

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Going over to Holland to look at the 1970 RR (Orange colour) on Wednesday.

Anything else that I need to know about 70 Roadrunners please.

Back to that fender tag - what colour code is on it for it to be Vitamin "c" colour. It looks to me like the letters and numbers on the tag are "EB5". What colour was that?

Cheers

Ashy22
 

Basketcase

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I don't know the code for Vitamin C, but B5 is blue. '70s are a one year only on a lot of the parts, so that can be $$ to find replacements.
Good luck in Holland! take some old clothes and a good flashlight with you, spend time under the car looking at the frames,floors, etc. Look for frame repairs. I've seen putty used to cover bad areas. Over here mice LOVE to build nests inside the frames. Nests get wet, metal rots. Check out the rear shock member like we've talked about.Lay inside the trunk, and look up at the rear window area,(should be able to spot the original color under the speaker shelf here) mainly where the lower trim would be on the lower glass, and also up in the roof pillars. Known places for rust. Look over the front end for frame damage (wrecks),rust. If they are claiming new parts, they need to have receipts to prove it. Look with your head, not your heart! You know this isn't the only car out there, so if something doesn't seem right, pass and keep looking. Good Luck and let us know how you make out.
 

Basketcase

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looking over the pics again, I see the bottom of the driver's seat has a split seem, so seat covers are in the future. I find it odd where there are not pics of certain areas...none of the trunk, rear seat, something to keep in mind. Might be bad areas, maybe just didn't take those pics. And to the left of the under dash gauges, there is a light cover missing, not sure what that would be on a '70 automatic.
 

ashy22

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Thanks for the info guys.

Should be a good day tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

I will get back to you after the trip.

Cheers

Ashy22
 

ashy22

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Right guys.

Just returned from the trip to Amsterdam. It's been a long day. 2 flights 2 intercity train journeys and 2 half hour taxi rides. ouch!!

Firstly, as I went into the car showroom and saw it for the first time it looked great. Then I opened the trunk and my heart sank :(

There was quite a bit of rust on the trunk floor and maybe 6 or 7 clear holes that you could see daylight through. (see attached pictures)

I had a good look underneath and to be fair it looked pretty good. Quite a bit of oil thrown around though from a leaky oil pan ( I think) a bit of surface rust here and there but nothing really bad.

Inside was OK but not great. A couple of seams in the front seats are split. The centre column is really loose also (is this normal?) The doors closed well enough, as did the hood and trunk. The "air grabber" isn't working.

Under the hood looked OK but quite a bit of surface rust on things like the brake master cylinder.

I got in the trunk and had a look under the parcel shelf where the speakers are. (see photo). Not sure whether what I saw here is right or wrong. It looked ok.

Where the trunk weather seal sits is corroded on the lip all the way round and I couldn't see the numbers that are supposed to be on there to match the VIN. Too much rust.

Right - so I took her for a test drive. Fired up ok from cold and engine sounded ok. Nice Mopar sound!

Auto box shifted up and down ok and engine did seem strong.

Brakes not so good. Had to really push hard on the brakes (front disk and rear shoes) to get them to work and then it locked up the front left and veared left.

The guy said it hadn't been run for a while. Hmmmm??

So what now? My gut feeling is to look around for something better maybe. This IS the first one that I have looked at in the flesh so to speak. There just aren't many around in the UK.

There is another guy in the UK (only about 70 miles from me) who is selling a 1970 GTX 440 sixpack with matching numbers engine but he wants more than I want to spend. I think he wants 27k GBP (about 40k USD).

Maybe I should go and look at it, if only to compare it to the RR that I have just seen. (do you know what I mean?) The GTX is supposed to be in a very good condition.

Here are the pictures
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Ashy 22 :)

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Ranger

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My trunk was pretty badly rusted (only part of the car that was), but it was all surface rust. I scraped and wire brushed it, then painted it which Chassis Saver and then painted it. It is rough, but solid (and hidden under the vinyl trunk pad). THAT one may need a new panel welded in.
 

Basketcase

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the dash has been painted, the vin tag should have a white Chrysler Corporation decal on it.
I've seen worse on the trunk pan. To be as nice as the rest of the car does, it should be replaced, but you could clean and paint it and worry about it another day.
not sure what you mean by centre column....steering column? a 40 year old car won't have the same tight feel as a new car. plain and simple. You get used to it, as long as it isn't excessive.
The vin numbers on the trunk rail are under the trunk weatherstrip, which if it's glued down as it should be, you couldn't see them.
the master cylinder is unpainted when new, so surface rust is normal. What else was rusty?
brakes...rears just my need adjusted, and the front sounds like a caliper piston hanging up. I had one do that so bad I could make a sharp left turn without turning the steering wheel.
what was the price on the car?
If your gut is telling you to keep looking...then listen to it. Keep looking and saving your money, and get the nicest car you can. and not a bad idea to look the GTX over just to compare things.
 
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