The Greek Roadrunner is finally here!

69RunnerMike

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Thanks! I'm positive it's the only one. There are a couple of chargers here and there. But no Roadrunners, not even pre-71 satellites.
Even sitting on the side of the road for the first couple of days it gathered a crowd! I was honestly expecting everyone to think it's just some old heap of scrap metal but its presence here between all the citroens and Nissan micras etc is really something else.

Have you got yours running? What are you planning to do with your floors and frame rails. Are you planning to rotisserie restore yours right away or fix it up and drive it for a while?
Mine is running, but not drivable. It needs 3 things. Exhaust, tires and K frame. I had originally planned to work on stripping the floor and frame, repair any rust and prime and paint, then move onto the body. I have changed course and am now working to get it drivable, then plan on working on a total restore next year beginning in the spring. I ripped the interior out because it was ripped and moldy. Found one small hole and serious pitting and metal loss on floor, so a new floor pan is on the menu. Probably by the time I get it done, gasoline will be illegal.

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kariverson

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Mine is running, but not drivable. It needs 3 things. Exhaust, tires and K frame. I had originally planned to work on stripping the floor and frame, repair any rust and prime and paint, then move onto the body. I have changed course and am now working to get it drivable, then plan on working on a total restore next year beginning in the spring. I ripped the interior out because it was ripped and moldy. Found one small hole and serious pitting and metal loss on floor, so a new floor pan is on the menu. Probably by the time I get it done, gasoline will be illegal.
Seems like we're on the same boat then.
I'm looking to rent some closed space so I can start stripping. I'll try to get it running starting next month with partial disassembly of the motor making sure it's clean. And next year I'm waiting on some money, when it comes, I'll repair any damage on frame and floors, sand, prime and paint it and go from there.
 

Russ69Runner

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Wish both of you the best with the project. Once restored you can be proud of your labor. We all try to save what we can and keep the budget low. Sometimes we just have to bite the bullet and go for it. It is like this picture and asking myself what did I get myself into. Lol. IMG_0101 (2).JPG IMG_0101.JPG IMG_0102 (2).JPG
 

MoparDan

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You've got the cars, the hard part is over. Make a plan and enjoy watching it progress. Take lots of pictures, measure everything. Mine did not have an interior I drove it on the trailer sitting on a milk crate. The same one in the 1st picture.

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cshd9199

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GOOD LUCK I hope you have patience looks like a lot of work! But thanks for bringing another 1 back to life!!!!!!!!!!! 20210703_105052 (1).jpg
 

kariverson

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Hi guys, how are you?
Sorry I haven't posted anything for a while. I'm getting ready for a small order of parts from the US to get the engine running.

Firstly I noticed that the oil pan is right above the K-Member. Do you usually have to remove the engine to get the oil pan out?

The things I'm ordering were discussed with a friend mechanic of mine and are mostly for the ignition and fuel system. A carburator repair kit, full gasket kit etc. I'll include pics of my order basket. Do you have any suggestions for other websites other than Summit racing?

Also any suggestions what I can replace without taking the whole engine apart for now?

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69RunnerMike

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Hi Kariverson,
Good to hear from you. You may need to replace the valve stem seals. I just recently found pieces of mine when I popped the valve covers off. Possibly new water pump or rebuild yours, don't remember how long your car sat. Radiator hoses, thermostat. Distributor cap, points, spark plugs.

Unless someone has a better method to remove the oil pan, I would support the engine with an engine lift And remove the K member. Good time to replace bushings too.

For engine parts I have used:
YearOne https://www.yearone.com/
Classic Industries https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1969/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/engine/
Dante's Mopar Parts https://dantesparts.com/c-1389186-our-products.html
Carparts.com https://www.carparts.com/
PG Classic https://pgclassic.com/
PartsGeek https://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/1969/plymouth/road_runner.html
MegaPartsUSA1 Seller on eBay
JEGS https://www.jegs.com/

Good luck and when you get it running, take a video and post it so we can all hear it.
 

kariverson

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Hi Kariverson,
Good to hear from you. You may need to replace the valve stem seals. I just recently found pieces of mine when I popped the valve covers off. Possibly new water pump or rebuild yours, don't remember how long your car sat. Radiator hoses, thermostat. Distributor cap, points, spark plugs.

Unless someone has a better method to remove the oil pan, I would support the engine with an engine lift And remove the K member. Good time to replace bushings too.

For engine parts I have used:
YearOne https://www.yearone.com/
Classic Industries https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1969/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/engine/
Dante's Mopar Parts https://dantesparts.com/c-1389186-our-products.html
Carparts.com https://www.carparts.com/
PG Classic https://pgclassic.com/
PartsGeek https://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/1969/plymouth/road_runner.html
MegaPartsUSA1 Seller on eBay
JEGS https://www.jegs.com/

Good luck and when you get it running, take a video and post it so we can all hear it.
Hey Mike! Thanks a ton for the suggestions and those websites, I'm gonna check them out!
 

V.R.D

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i have removed the oil pan in the car with out removing the trans or exhaust . remove the center link from the pitman arm and the idler arm pull down both wheels will turn in at the rear then remove oil pan .
 

Russ69Runner

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Always more than one way to get things done. My motor cranked and ran and did not smoke. But after getting it out and broke down. OMG. Really don't know how it ran without smoking. So much wrong in the motor and had to get a new block so I would be under 30 over with the rebuild. The crank had a problem with one main bearing due to riding the clutch or had a blown torque converter. Constant push the crank forward. So had to find another crank for it. Got lucky. My motor man found me one in good shape. Just to say you really don't know what you have till you break it down and go through it. That is the best thing to do if you plan on driving the car for a long time. It gives you a peace of mind that the motor does not have any thing hiding somewhere. Like totally rebuilding the rearend also. Got to figure these old cars are tired and have had the hell beat out of them. Just my two cents. LOL. :kartman:
 

quikbird

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To get to the front several oil pan bolts might need to pull one motor mount bole and Jack up that side of engine after remove center link of steering as previously said.
ps, might look into little bigger capacity alternator. These cars were marginal in capacity when new.
 

kariverson

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Always more than one way to get things done. My motor cranked and ran and did not smoke. But after getting it out and broke down. OMG. Really don't know how it ran without smoking. So much wrong in the motor and had to get a new block so I would be under 30 over with the rebuild. The crank had a problem with one main bearing due to riding the clutch or had a blown torque converter. Constant push the crank forward. So had to find another crank for it. Got lucky. My motor man found me one in good shape. Just to say you really don't know what you have till you break it down and go through it. That is the best thing to do if you plan on driving the car for a long time. It gives you a peace of mind that the motor does not have any thing hiding somewhere. Like totally rebuilding the rearend also. Got to figure these old cars are tired and have had the hell beat out of them. Just my two cents. LOL. :kartman:To get to the front several oil pan bolts might need to pull one motor mount bole and Jack up that side of engine after remove center link of steering as previously said.
Thank you! Yeah honestly I agree. But it feels horrible letting the car sit there rotting until I have the $$ required to get the engine rebuilt. I wanted to atleast get it running as safely as I can without a rebuild. I plan on rebuilding the carburator though, to make sure it gets a nice clean supply of fuel. In the meantime I'll jack it up and clean undercarriage rust. Until next year when I'm planning a full disassembly and blasting to start bodywork.

To get to the front several oil pan bolts might need to pull one motor mount bole and Jack up that side of engine after remove center link of steering as previously said.
ps, might look into little bigger capacity alternator. These cars were marginal in capacity when new.
Thanks! I'll check it out!

I have also found Rockauto.com very good for OEM replacement parts, at very fair prices.
I love how Rockauto has structured their website everything so neat and easy to find but they ship everything from different locations and shipping charges go through the roof. For the same order I had 250$ shipping from RockAuto and 120$ from SummitRacing. Plus I've heard very bad reviews for how they get every order wrong and especially from an international location returns would be such a drag.
 

Rapid Transit

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Did you find out if it is a Sure Grip?
Someone said "All 4 speed Roadrunners are Sure Grip."
Mine wasn't even though I was expecting it.
And I don't see that on your broadcast sheet.
I think you got a good thing going over there.

I'm no good at decoding these things
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kariverson

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Did you find out if it is a Sure Grip?
Someone said "All 4 speed Roadrunners are Sure Grip."
Mine wasn't even though I was expecting it.
And I don't see that on your broadcast sheet.
I think you got a good thing going over there.

I'm no good at decoding these things
. View attachment 36856

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Yeah sure grips should say D91 up the where it says D53. It's on the part of my build sheet that's missing :(:( :'( I hope you can tell by the axle itself...
It also seems there was something on the "A" "Combination groups" on the first box but I will never know...
 

MoparDan

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Did you find out if it is a Sure Grip?
Someone said "All 4 speed Roadrunners are Sure Grip."
Mine wasn't even though I was expecting it.
And I don't see that on your broadcast sheet.
I think you got a good thing going over there.

I'm no good at decoding these things
. View attachment 36856

View attachment 36855
Did you find out if it is a Sure Grip?
Someone said "All 4 speed Roadrunners are Sure Grip."
Mine wasn't even though I was expecting it.
And I don't see that on your broadcast sheet.
I think you got a good thing going over there.

I'm no good at decoding these things
. View attachment 36856

View attachment 36855
Determining if it is a Sure Grip is easy. jack up both rear wheels turn a wheel by hand if they turn in the opposite direction it is not a Sure Grip. If you can't turn it or they turn in the same direction, it is a Sure Grip.
 
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