727 Acting weird

[inri]

trans temp usually runs 20 degrees hotter then engine temperature

My transmission temp is about the same as my engine temp on the street 180 ish, give or take a few degrees. Obviously on hot hot days the engine would hit 195 in stop and go as would the transmission, but quickly cool down once the car moved.

 

[inri]

Don't get me wrong, I'm not advising against a temp sensor. As said before it is your car build it to your needs. As mention by George check your trans cooler.

Thank you for your comment! Will do.

 

[inri]

I'm a lean mean responding machine!

 

[69hemibeep]

Nice! I take it you had a hemi in your motor home? hehe

It was a 38" Ferd on a Deer chassis but it had an engine fire and burned to the ground. Gas leak next to the distributer and they had a recall a month later. But at the time the trans was cool LOL

 

[inri]

It was a 38" Ferd on a Deer chassis but it had an engine fire and burned to the ground. Gas leak next to the distributer and they had a recall a month later. But at the time the trans was cool LOL

LOL.. that was a funny comment!

 

[inri]

So I have Good news and Bad news...

I'm going to start with the Bad news. I installed a spacer, filter, and deep aluminum transmission pan along with a new electric gauge to monitor the transmission temp. Got it all wired up and even placed an in-line fuse directly behind the gauge. Took the car out to see if there were any transmission pan leaks and also to make sure the trans temp gauge works; both are A-OK. So where's the bad news?... ...driving on the streets I noticed that the transmission had a very hard time getting into 3rd gear. Maybe 3 out of 15 times it shifted into 3rd. All the other times the transmission just stayed in second gear even though I had moved the shifter to 3rd. 1st to 2nd still feels crisp but I'm kinda worried that I may have an issue with them soon enough!

The Good news is... ...there's no more bad news!:rimshot:

 

[Basketcase]

did you try maunally shifting it? and make sure the linkage is adjusted properly, kickdown,etc, or screw it and put a 4 speed in it!

 

[inri]

did you try maunally shifting it? and make sure the linkage is adjusted properly, kickdown,etc, or screw it and put a 4 speed in it!

The transmission is a manual valve body, so I have to manually shift it in order for it to shift. Not sure how or why the linkage would be off? All i did was replace the pan. There were a bunch of metal shavings in the pan though...

You know of a reasonable manual transmission for a high hp 440? 600+ torque rating? Getting a bit frustrated and will NOW compare the costs between rebuilding or replacement!!

 

[Basketcase]

get ahold of Jamie Passion at Passion Performance. great guy, will fix you right up.

 

[pinkpanthr]

Passon performance has 18-spline rebuilts starting at 1995.00, shoot him an email for special needs and he is super quick with responses. You can also try Brewers Performance, I think theirs start around the same.

 

[Big John]

The transmission is a manual valve body, so I have to manually shift it in order for it to shift. Not sure how or why the linkage would be off? All i did was replace the pan. There were a bunch of metal shavings in the pan though...

You know of a reasonable manual transmission for a high hp 440? 600+ torque rating? Getting a bit frustrated and will NOW compare the costs between rebuilding or replacement!!

It's more likely a valve body problem. The snap rings laying in the pan are a pretty good clue for that.

A good 727, built correctly, will handle your 440 and scatter less parts further down the driveline. Chances are good you could have that trans rebuilt and a NEW valve body installed and you'll be happy.

 

[Basketcase]

and if you can scrounge up some old core type 4 speeds, even the 4 speed ODs, Jamie will take them on trade.

 

[inri]

If I make the change back to a 4 speed what other changes will need to take place? Will i need a different driveshaft due to the length of the 4 speed, new gauges? Etc...
Thanks.

 

[inri]

It's more likely a valve body problem. The snap rings laying in the pan are a pretty good clue for that.

A good 727, built correctly, will handle your 440 and scatter less parts further down the driveline. Chances are good you could have that trans rebuilt and a NEW valve body installed and you'll be happy.

John,

Could you further explain having my transmission rebuilt? What exactly does that mean/entail? Could I just pop a new valve body in there and be good to go?

 

[Basketcase]

no on the drive shaft. why would you need to change the gauges?

 

[inri]

no on the drive shaft. why would you need to change the gauges?

Thanks regarding the driveshaft. I thought that perhaps I would need a new speedometer pinion w/different tooth count and gauge for a manual?

 

[Basketcase]

IIRC, the tooth count goes by the rear end gear. when I chenged my truck from a 5 speed to an auto this spring, I swapped the gear from the 5 speed to have the speedo correct.

 

[Big John]

John,

Could you further explain having my transmission rebuilt? What exactly does that mean/entail? Could I just pop a new valve body in there and be good to go?

Basically, the trans would be taken apart and cleaned. Then it would be assembled using new clutches, bands and seals. Given that there is some sort of issue with the transmission, then I would say that you don't want to just change the valve body. Keep in mind too that while I've built a few transmissions, I'm just guessing that is what the problem is. The key is to find a good trans shop to do the work.

Do you really need the manual valve body? I've run those on the street and never cared for it myself.

 

[inri]

Basically, the trans would be taken apart and cleaned. Then it would be assembled using new clutches, bands and seals. Given that there is some sort of issue with the transmission, then I would say that you don't want to just change the valve body. Keep in mind too that while I've built a few transmissions, I'm just guessing that is what the problem is. The key is to find a good trans shop to do the work.

Do you really need the manual valve body? I've run those on the street and never cared for it myself.

Thanks John. I believe your rough synopsis of my potential issue is pretty close to the actual.

I'm not sure I need the manual valve body as it came in the transmission. I don't race the car much (1 time / year) but it is nice to go through the gears lol

I'll be attaching some pics of my car that I've jacked up. I'm preparing to drain the transmission fluid remove the new TCI deep pan and install the old pan (in case of scuffing the pan while removing it).

 

[inri]

I took these pics from my phone so they aren't the best quality, but are to give a reference as to how I have jacked-up the car to prepare for the 727 transmission removal. As you'll notice I did use ramps for the rear tires but I used one facing the front and the other facing the back as to not allow any roll. The (2) jack stands near the rear end aren't touching the frame. They are about 1/8" from the frame because the rear tires are supporting the rear. The front (3) jack stands are all fully supporting the frame. And, I have a floor jack supporting the k-member.

Any other support measures I should take prior?

Thanks.