Engine ground

69hemibeep said:
The inverted hole in John's pic is used for a plastic nail that holds the firewall insulation up that someone repurposed it for a wire, so the grommet size would be a mystery.
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That’s exactly right and what happen was it was kind of bent over and then I realized I could put the wire through it so I used it I still have the plastic tip in my ashtray. because I did not want to drill any new holes in the firewall because I did not want to drill any new holes in the firewall
 
john visconti said:
Can somebody tell me on my 70 road runner which I’m sure should be the same as a 69 road runner where the main engine ground should be that I could check on it and I know there’s one by the battery that goes to the Radiator support. But I was wondering where the engine to frame or body is located pics would help thanks John
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John, as mentioned, the ‘69 & earlier B-bodies did use a ground cable between the rear of the right side/passenger head to a threaded area of the firewall adjacent to the ballist resister. However, if I recall correctly & you would need to confirm this, I believe 1970 & later B-bodies are grounded to the radiator support area via a secondary cable from the backside of the negative battery cable head.....hope it helps ....Jim
 
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That is what I would do look into Auto Zone or one of the part's stores on the assortment Isle. Never good to put a wire against a metal edge. I would run a ground to the front frame rail then to the starter bolt this would insure that every thing was grounded. Have done this in the past so you can run a larger cable nothing worst than to loose a good ground.
 
69B7RR said:
John, as mentioned, the ‘69 & earlier B-bodies did use a ground cable between the rear of the right side/passenger head to a threaded area of the firewall adjacent to the ballist resister. However, if I recall correctly & you would need to confirm this, I believe 1970 & later B-bodies are grounded to the radiator support area via a secondary cable from the backside of the negative battery cable head.....hope it helps ....Jim
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Hi John......did u figure out the ground issue...Jim
 
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Try the plastic cap for a old box ball point pen see if it fits and then drill a hole in the cap it may work
 
Too, difference between grounding and bonding wires. Bonding insures all levels of frame, body/motor are at same potential. Not used to complete circuit for DCV. Cows were getting electrocuted walking up cement ramps at farms until the grid rebar was connected with the electrical system. Safety thing, yes do plumbing and oil tank and no limitations.

Grounding is part of an electrical distribution and directly connected with neutral at building entry. Used to connect all grounds and neutrals together at sub-panels also, today everything is separate as neutral is a current carrying conductor- ground isn’t supposed to be. Oh well, that’s the NEC for ya.
 
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Yes they separated the Grounding bar and the neutral bar some time ago. But if you go to the transformer it is all the same. X O is grounded their. Grounding it's to protect us from being electrocuted. By a short in a frame that is isolated from a ground hence when we touch it we become the ground and the current passes through us. The neutral wire carries off the unused current back to the panel. With out a neutral you do not complete the coil in the transformer. Some Jack Ass electrician in a house took the ground wire to make a neutral for a house vacuum cleaner in the garage. When the owner wanted to clean or change the filter he touched the can while it was running and it shocked the hell out of him. I was on a fiber glass latter and went to check it out and it hit me also. That is when I found the problem. Sometimes With Romex wiring this is what they do which is totally wrong. But have seen it. It was a quick way to get the circuit they wanted. In stead of running another circuit. They took the neutral wire to get another hot wire for the vacuum. In results they could have killed someone. The owner had been in the pool and went in to get the filter changed. I can see him now how he felt and I was on a ladder. Man what a shock he must have gotten. Back to a car and DC. I will run a braded wire from my negative side of the battery to the frame then to the engine. Every knows that the motor sit's on motor mounts that is an isolator which rubber is not a good conductor of electricity. All connections should be clean. To protect a wire that is conducting a good ground can be sprayed with lacquer once all connections are completed. To stop it from being corroded. :thumbsup:
 
For sure Russ, I could never figure out with stoves and dryers with the ground used as for conductor. At least with 4 wire now everything is standard. And in Maine nobody knows if the ground socket is placed on top or below for 120V outlets. I like ground on top because sometimes plugs can be slightly ajar. If bending over and say a metal ball point pen falls from pocket, with ground on top possible to avoid hot and neutral from shunting with pen. Have of coarse put in either way for uniformity.

And then putting the covers on switches etc with the cover screw slots all parallel and vertical. Fuses so labeling shows and not upside-down. Oh no, there is no end; glad to be taking long break from it all.
 
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Rich B said:
For sure Russ, I could never figure out with stoves and dryers with the ground used as for conductor. At least with 4 wire now everything is standard. And in Maine nobody knows if the ground socket is placed on top or below for 120V outlets. I like ground on top because sometimes plugs can be slightly ajar. If bending over and say a metal ball point pen falls from pocket, with ground on top possible to avoid hot and neutral from shunting with pen. Have of coarse put in either way for uniformity.

And then putting the covers on switches etc with the cover screw slots all parallel and vertical. Fuses so labeling shows and not upside-down. Oh no, there is no end; glad to be taking long break from it all.
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Intense conversatio!!!
Whew right over!!!
 
Rich B said:
For sure Russ, I could never figure out with stoves and dryers with the ground used as for conductor. At least with 4 wire now everything is standard. And in Maine nobody knows if the ground socket is placed on top or below for 120V outlets. I like ground on top because sometimes plugs can be slightly ajar. If bending over and say a metal ball point pen falls from pocket, with ground on top possible to avoid hot and neutral from shunting with pen. Have of coarse put in either way for uniformity.

And then putting the covers on switches etc with the cover screw slots all parallel and vertical. Fuses so labeling shows and not upside-down. Oh no, there is no end; glad to be taking long break from it all.
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What the electrical code say's is Right hot Left neutral bottom ground. With plumbing left hot right cold and ground is where it all goes. :lol:
 
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While we’re not on the subject check out what I just bought I know I’m a trader it’s a Chevy!
My First C5 For under 8k
I have wanted to buy one for years
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Nice but what happened to the challenger. To be honest I loved the old vet's just to say they had a lot more style over the new one's. Like it though. :thumbsup2: :kartman:Hope it came with an ice chest full of beer in the trunk.
 
john visconti said:
Intense conversatio!!!
Whew right over!!!
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Russ69Runner said:
Nice but what happened to the challenger. To be honest I loved the old vet's just to say they had a lot more style over the new one's. Like it though. :thumbsup2: :kartman:Hope it came with an ice chest full of beer in the trunk.
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Challenger is still in the works but I got to get rid of the Road Runner as the Challenger is a way bigger purchase than this Corvette for under $8000
 
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