The Greek Roadrunner is finally here!

MoparDan

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For engine parts I get a lot of my parts from 440source.com For body panels I only use AMD (autometaldirect.com). Other venders I use are Classic Industries and PG Classics. I will never use Year One again. I cancelled an order and they said they refunded the money but they didn't. They told me I had to contact my bank, I did and when my bank contacted them they lied and told the bank I received the parts. Now I'm out $75.00.
 

Rapid Transit

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I pulled it out.
Negative on the Sure Grip.
Oh, so on line 2 there is a "S/G" missing?
No worries though.
I wanted taller gears with a 742 and bought
Even the marks were pretty well preserved.

rear.png rear1.png
O
 
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RKNRLR

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Thank you! Yeah honestly I agree. But it feels horrible letting the car sit there rotting until I have the $$ required to get the engine rebuilt. I wanted to atleast get it running as safely as I can without a rebuild. I plan on rebuilding the carburator though, to make sure it gets a nice clean supply of fuel. In the meantime I'll jack it up and clean undercarriage rust. Until next year when I'm planning a full disassembly and blasting to start bodywork.


Thanks! I'll check it out!


I love how Rockauto has structured their website everything so neat and easy to find but they ship everything from different locations and shipping charges go through the roof. For the same order I had 250$ shipping from RockAuto and 120$ from SummitRacing. Plus I've heard very bad reviews for how they get every order wrong and especially from an international location returns would be such a drag.
I have ordered a heap of parts over the last 5 years or so, havent had any problems yet. The shipping is a bit high, but its still cheaper than trying to source parts locally for me, which are easily still 30-50% more, even after shipping.
Also, once you shop a few times, and have an ccount on the website, they will contact you when a supplier of theirs is having closout sale, and thats when you can buy a whole heap of oem stuff, usually small stuff like bolts, bushings, drum brake springs, you know - all the stuff thats impossible to find - super cheap. $50 will get you a box full of spares in these cases.

I have a few boes full of this kind of stuff. If you are ever looking for something, feel free to give me a yell.
 

kariverson

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I have ordered a heap of parts over the last 5 years or so, havent had any problems yet. The shipping is a bit high, but its still cheaper than trying to source parts locally for me, which are easily still 30-50% more, even after shipping.
Also, once you shop a few times, and have an ccount on the website, they will contact you when a supplier of theirs is having closout sale, and thats when you can buy a whole heap of oem stuff, usually small stuff like bolts, bushings, drum brake springs, you know - all the stuff thats impossible to find - super cheap. $50 will get you a box full of spares in these cases.

I have a few boes full of this kind of stuff. If you are ever looking for something, feel free to give me a yell.
I will most likely end up making a small order from RockAuto anyway, since I couln't find everything on Classic Industries, like a gasket set.
Will do buddy thanks!

I raised the front today to change the dacades old blown front tires so I can move around the car when needed. I can't remove the tires from the rims myself for my life. They're extremely old and are pretty much stuckon the rim.
The lift points are in the worst condition of all the rails since they're right below the front floor boars so I chose to put the jack stands under the lower control arms. They're sturdy and it simulates the road load. Do you think I can leave it there for a couple of days until I find a shop to change my tires?
Later I will jack the rear also (maybe from the axle?) To start cleaning undercarriage rust, remove the gas tank etc.

IMG_20221022_132738.jpg
 
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Rapid Transit

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Jack stand on the LCO not a problem.
You say can't remove "tires" ????
Do you mean "brake drums"?
I see the back tires on the ground.
You know about the left hand thread studs on the drivers side, correct?
 

kariverson

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Jack stand on the LCO not a problem.
You say can't remove "tires" ????
Do you mean "brake drums"?
I see the back tires on the ground.
You know about the left hand thread studs on the drivers side, correct?
Sorry I should have explained better. I meant can't remove the tires from the rims, so I'll have a shop do it Monday. And I was wondering if it was ok to leave it like that and later with 4 jack stands for extended periods of time.
 
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Rapid Transit

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Yes.
Some people actually say don't let a suspension "hang" for an extending period.
In other words, jack stands under the rear axle and LCAs are preferred to jack stands on the frame frame.
The car is supported on it normal points then.
I don't think either is a big issue really.
And since you probably will go through the suspension anyway, it's not important.
(Leaf spring fasteners should be tightened with the rubber bushings in the loaded position.)
 

quikbird

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can stay on jackstands for quite a while. Bigger issue might be why is drivers wheel pointed one way and the other one pointed differently.
other recommendation, get stronger Jack stands. If I’m under the car, those make me nervous
 

kariverson

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can stay on jackstands for quite a while. Bigger issue might be why is drivers wheel pointed one way and the other one pointed differently.
other recommendation, get stronger Jack stands. If I’m under the car, those make me nervous
I noticed that too. I don't think it was like that when it came here. I actually towed it to that place about a kilometer and it was rolling pretty well.
I wouldn't get under the car like that either! Not without a couple of cinder blocks and more stuff under there. But the jack stands look very sturdy to me, and specifically got ones with pins to be safer.
 

Russ69Runner

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Use big blocks of wood under the frame rails. I never seen wood crush. I used 8x8 timbers and did not have a lift supported the car in four places on each side. The car was well over 16 inches off the ground so I could use a creeper to do my work.
 

MoparDan

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I noticed that too. I don't think it was like that when it came here. I actually towed it to that place about a kilometer and it was rolling pretty well.
I wouldn't get under the car like that either! Not without a couple of cinder blocks and more stuff under there. But the jack stands look very sturdy to me, and specifically got ones with pins to be safer.
I would not use cinder blocks. They can easily break. Like Russ said use timbers, they are much stronger and short sections (around a foot ) are almost impossible to break. I use 6x6's
 

kariverson

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Bigger issue might be why is drivers wheel pointed one way and the other one pointed differently.
So that turned out to be a visual trick of the phone camera! The wheels are parallel :p

Question, do I need to remove the K-Member and therefore the engine to remove the front suspension?

I was thinking of adding this front suspension rebuild kit to my order. And the rest of the front suspension, brush the rust, clean, rust convert and paint black.
IMG_20221026_175800.jpg
 

MoparDan

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So that turned out to be a visual trick of the phone camera! The wheels are parallel :p

Question, do I need to remove the K-Member and therefore the engine to remove the front suspension?

I was thinking of adding this front suspension rebuild kit to my order. And the rest of the front suspension, brush the rust, clean, rust convert and paint black.
View attachment 36888
There is no need to remove the K-member to replace the front suspension. That looks like a nice kit, but I prefer to use Polyurethane bushings, They have a lot of advantages over rubber with the only disadvantage being that they transmit more road noise and vibration to the interior. Here's the kit I'm looking at.
 
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quikbird

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If you have something strong enough to hang the engine from, the member can be dropped out and cleaned up, painted etc. 4 bolts
 

kariverson

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Hey guys what's up? I don't have any updates yet unfortunatelly. I've been working a lot lately to make a big order for parts on Black Friday. Parts to rebuild the suspension, the brakes etc.
I also need to install a reproduction dash vin tag. If you guys remember for some reason it was revined in '78-'79 even though body numbers, build sheet and engine have the right vin.
Found these rivets at a great price. They appear to be factory correct. What do you think?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134108661989
 

MoparDan

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I'm not sure those rivets are correct. They are a flower shape and I think mine are round, I'll have to check, but mine is a 70. we need someone with a 69 to chime in. Russ is usually larking around somewhere, I'm sure he can answer the question. Who have you found to reproduce a VIN Tag? But then again I don't know the laws in Greece.
 
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kariverson

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I'm not sure those rivets are correct. They are a flower shape and I think mine are round, I'll have to check, but mine is a 70. we need someone with a 69 to chime in. Who have you found to reproduce a VIN Tag? But then again I don't know the laws in Greece.
I'm fairly certain that they are flower shaped on the 69s but I want to make sure.

This guy can make the VIN tag.
https://dataplates4u.com/

Well classic cars don't get registered here. (They are not free to move around either, only a couple Sundays a month and not very far) They get some certificate from a couple of official FIVA "clubs".
They normally would want to use the VIN that was on the import paperwork but I want to make my case with them to use the right VIN since I have all the proof.
 
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